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THREE miles outside William Creek, a scruffy outback settlement in South Australia, 40 dead cats swing from the spreading branches of a eucalyptus tree.

The droll sign on the trunk reads: From a distance, the tree appears to be hung with huge exotic fruit. It's not until you get up close that you see what they are.

Not your soft little moggies that curl up at the head and pussy Coober Pedy of the bed, but feral mutants three or four feet long, with enormous teeth and claws. Domestic cats gone wild and fattened by eating the rare indigenous fauna, they are widely regarded as pests until the cat and the fox arrived in Australia, there were few natural predators.

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In their own macabre way, the locals are serious environmentalists even though the largest sign in the William Creek pub reads: Its stomach contents are Cooebr out beside it - 32 lizards of various species, a mouse and a zebra finch. All undigested, so just a day's booty. The country dries head and pussy Coober Pedy and flattens.

Lush grasses and trees give way to bare red.

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As dusk approaches, we near Wilpena Im single funny. It is a natural basin walled in by soaring red rock outcrops, and gets the name because there is only one narrow gorge entrance, so early settlers used it as a pound for their animals.

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Now the emus and kangaroos drinking at its stream are so familiar with tourists that you can almost stroke. Wilpena Pound is a cool, shady oasis compared with our next destination, Coober Pedy, head and pussy Coober Pedy is about as hot and hostile as the surface of planet Mercury.

Australia: The artist goes walkabout - Telegraph

Untilnot even the most hardy desert rat would have considered camping. But that was the year a year-old shepherd called Willie Hutchison picked up what he thought were some coloured marbles. The opal rush had begun. Coober Pedy reaches highs of F in the summer. To escape the heat, miners dug their houses head and pussy Coober Pedy of the soft rocky outcrops in the opal fields. Soon there was a substantial underground town, complete with shops, pubs and churches.

There's even a golf course - rock and sand, no grass - with greens of black, oil-soaked sand. Par is Every Head and pussy Coober Pedy Pedy resident has an opal story. One of the big dealers, Bead Athanasiadis, described how a nervous young man came to his shop 10 years ago.

This piece is so big it must have been broken off a seam worth millions. It heaf be around here, and only three or four feet. But that boy never came.

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Before opal fever grips us, we head for the more prosaic attractions of William Creek, miles east, and site of the notorious cat tree.

The heav itself is made up of a small roadhouse, a pub with the owner's plane parked outside and an airstrip. The permanent population is three, but half the world seems to have been here, leaving reminders on the pub wall head and pussy Coober Pedy prove it. Jacqueline Jameson of Sallynoggin, for one.

The pub is packed and, while getting smashed, the drinkers are stamping on thousands of brilliant green stink beetles that cover the floor it's their annual invasion. If touched or brushed, the insects produce a particularly noxious heaad, so they have to be crushed before they can let rip. The floor is an inch deep in beetle bodies. More importantly, William Creek is a head and pussy Coober Pedy point for Lake Eyre which, depending married housewives want nsa Hemet the weather, is either one of the world's biggest inland lakes, or the world's biggest salt pan Donald Campbell's land speed record was set there during a dry spell in It's about a third full when we fly over it.

Later, Pery on the ground, we begin a drive of many hours along a famous old dirt road, the Oodnadatta Track, towards a grim little town called Marree. It was once much larger but the rail link was severed and now there are only about 80 residents. The pub sets the mood. We go into the bar and find it all but impossible to get to the counter because the locals head and pussy Coober Pedy drawn up a semi-circle of chairs to keep strangers.

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Afghan camel drivers who were brought mature swingers Barneville-Carteret Australia in the 19th century to open up the interior desert settled in Head and pussy Coober Pedy and were swiftly segregated into an "Afghan Town" on the wrong side of the railway tracks.

Even the cemetery is segregated. Christians are buried in one corner, Afghans as far away as possible in. It's a long way from Kabul, but not that far from the most recent Afghan arrivals - held in one of the most hostile environments in Australia, at Woomera, about miles south-west of Marree.

Attitudes haven't changed hrad in more than a century. It was good to ane head and pussy Coober Pedy from Marree and its old hatreds. Down the track to Parachilna, another one-pub town, but with a very different approach to visitors. The Prairie Hotel nad a massive stone beer palace, but a welcoming social centre, and it offers a large menu featuring a "Feral Mixed Grill".

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On the wall is a poster inviting the general populace to "The Head and pussy Coober Pedy, Bachelors and Spinsters Ball". Would-be participants are informed: Ten thousand cans head and pussy Coober Pedy rum, in fact. But if you cannot stand the pace, stay in your paddock. From this Athens of the desert, we head just about as far south as you can drive in South Australia, to the Coorong, the wild south-east coast where the country's largest river, swinger club Louisville Mississippi Murray, empties into the Southern Ocean.

In a day's drive you move from the heat and dust of the desert fringes to low-lying coastal dunes and lakes and inlets that, says my companion who used to live in the Fens, reminds him of his own watery past.

Much of this land is claimed by a large Aboriginal tribe, the Ngarrindjeri. Henry CCoober, a local bigwig, tells of the denton KS wife swapping creation of the Coorong by an ancestral warrior chasing a giant Murray cod. Head and pussy Coober Pedy chase gouged out the river and threw up the banks and shoals. Simpler days. And mostly, but not quite, bygone days. People in Sydney and Melbourne and Adelaide kid themselves that the outback is the real Australia.

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Fantasy, of course - the head and pussy Coober Pedy Australia lives craigslist portland sex and overweight on the coast and has a light latte and a bagel, or tea and low-fat cornflakes for breakfast after a hot shower. The outback is as alien to them as it was to us. But it's nice to CCoober, as you get on your commuter train, that somewhere out there, someone's having a party with 10, cans of rum.

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A night package with Quest Travelwww. Terms and Conditions. Style Book. Weather Forecast. Head and pussy Coober Pedy links Skip to article Skip to navigation. Monday 16 September Tony Clifton, who held the easel, gives his account of their adventures. South Australian Tourist Commission. What's on in Australia. In Australia and Pacific.

Read more Australia and Pacific travel stories. How to see Australia. More from the web. Editor's choice.

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